With Harry and Meghan back in Britain and royal interest high, a London travel guide to the palaces, ceremonies and walks that visitors can enjoy without queuing behind a barrier all day
Royal Fever, Autumn Edition
Royal London never really goes out of season, but this autumn the interest is higher than usual. The Duke and Duchess of Sussex are now living in Britain, and the London Prat has already had fun with their first charity visits in a piece on Harry and Meghan’s return to Britain, complete with barriers, cameras, a unicorn balloon and a full analysis of a belt. Visitors arriving in London are asking the same question at every hotel desk: where can I see the royals?
The honest answer is that you probably will not, at least not up close, unless you happen to be in the right place at the right moment. But royal London is far more than spotting famous faces. It is palaces, parks, ceremonies and history, and much of it is free. Here is how to enjoy it sensibly.
Buckingham Palace
Buckingham Palace is the monarch’s official London residence and the most photographed building in the city. For most of the year, visitors see it from the outside, from the Victoria Memorial and the railings on The Mall. The State Rooms are usually open to paying visitors only during a summer opening period, traditionally from July to September, so in autumn you will be admiring the facade rather than the ballroom. That is no hardship. The view down The Mall towards Admiralty Arch, especially on a crisp autumn morning, is one of the great sights of London.
When the royal standard is flying from the palace, the monarch is in residence. When the Union flag flies instead, he is elsewhere. It is a small detail that visitors love to check, and the closest most of them get to a royal sighting.
The Changing Of The Guard
The Changing of the Guard is London’s most famous free ceremony, with soldiers in red tunics and bearskin hats, military music and a great deal of precise marching. Schedules vary through the year and are sometimes changed or cancelled because of weather or state occasions, so always check the official timetable on the day before setting out. Arrive early, ideally at least forty-five minutes before the start, if you want a good view at the palace railings. Alternatively, watch the guards march along The Mall or at Wellington Barracks, where crowds are thinner and the view can be better.
Kensington Palace
Kensington Palace, at the western edge of Kensington Gardens, is where the Duke of Sussex grew up and where Queen Victoria was born. Unlike Buckingham Palace, it is open to paying visitors much of the year, run by Historic Royal Palaces, with exhibitions on royal life, fashion and history. The surrounding gardens are free and beautiful in autumn, with golden trees, the Round Pond and the Sunken Garden. It is also, frankly, one of the calmer royal spots in London, far from the crowds of The Mall.
A Royal Walk
If you want to see the essentials of royal and political London in a single route, the Prat has a useful guide to the Westminster power walk from Big Ben to Buckingham Palace. Start at the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, pass Westminster Abbey, where coronations and royal weddings take place, walk up Whitehall past Horse Guards Parade and Downing Street, then cut through St James’s Park to the palace. It takes about an hour at a gentle pace, longer if you stop for photographs, which you will.
Remembrance Season
Visitors in early November will find London in a reflective mood. Poppies appear on coats, at stations and on war memorials. On Remembrance Sunday, the national ceremony takes place at the Cenotaph on Whitehall, led by the monarch, with members of the royal family, politicians and veterans. Public viewing areas fill early and security is tight. If you attend, dress warmly, arrive very early and observe the two minutes of silence at eleven o’clock. It is one of the most moving occasions in British public life, and visitors are welcome to share it respectfully.
Practical Tips
Royal London is spread out, so wear comfortable shoes and use public transport. Green Park and St James’s Park stations are closest to Buckingham Palace. Westminster station serves Parliament and the Abbey. High Street Kensington or Queensway are handy for Kensington Palace. Contactless bank cards work on the Underground and buses, with daily price caps, so you do not need to buy a separate ticket.
Be wary of anyone selling unofficial royal tours or guaranteed sightings. There is no such thing as a guaranteed sighting. Royal engagements are announced in advance only selectively, and security arrangements mean public access is often limited. The best way to see a royal in London is to enjoy the palaces, ceremonies and parks, and accept that if a famous face appears, it is a bonus.
About The Barriers
The Prat’s piece on the Sussexes’ visit makes gentle fun of the barriers, pooled cameras and crowds that surround any royal appearance. Visitors hoping to catch a glimpse should know that these events can mean long waits in the cold for a few seconds of view. If you enjoy that kind of thing, bring a flask and a folding stool. If not, Kensington Gardens is quieter, warmer in spirit and full of squirrels who will pose for photographs without any security at all. You can find more of my London travel advice on my author page.
One Last Tip
If you want a truly royal moment without the crowds, take an early morning walk through St James’s Park before nine o’clock. The pelicans, which have lived in the park since the seventeenth century, when the first ones were given to Charles II, will be wandering about as if they own the place, which in a sense they do. The palace will be glowing at one end, Horse Guards at the other, and the city will still be waking up. It is the most regal half hour London offers, and it costs nothing at all.