A London food diary entry on finally visiting a long-awaited permanent restaurant after years of pop-ups, why hybrid cuisines deserve more credit, and a brisket that genuinely lived up to years of hype
Hon’s BBQ finally opened a permanent home in Hackney Wick this month, after years of pop-ups and residencies that I’d been chasing around the city with genuinely embarrassing dedication, and the Chinese-Texan barbecue fusion that first won me over at some cramped market stall years ago turned out to have lost absolutely nothing in the move to a proper, permanent kitchen.
Why I’ve Been Following This Specific Pitmaster Around London For Years
I first tried the brisket at some now-forgotten pop-up, the specific combination of Texan smoking technique and Chinese five-spice seasoning doing something to my expectations of barbecue that I hadn’t previously known was possible, and I’ve been irregularly chasing whatever temporary residency he was running ever since.
What Actually Changed Once The Restaurant Had A Genuinely Permanent Home
Consistency, mostly, in the best possible way. Pop-ups always carry a certain risk, ingredients running out, off days that feel more forgivable in a temporary setup, and having an actual permanent kitchen seemed to let the whole operation settle into something considerably more confident and controlled.
How The Chinese-Texan Fusion Concept Has Actually Evolved Since I First Tried It
Genuinely more ambitious, with the menu now stretching well beyond the brisket that first hooked me into territory I hadn’t previously seen this specific pitmaster attempt, though the core smoking technique and seasoning philosophy that made the original pop-up food so distinctive remains reassuringly intact.
What Made This Particular Meal Feel Different From All The Pop-Up Versions I’d Chased Down Previously
Simply not having to worry whether they’d run out of my favourite cut before I reached the front of the queue, a genuinely small but meaningfully different experience from years of slightly anxious pop-up visits.
Whether The Years Of Chasing This Particular Chef Around The City Actually Paid Off
Completely, and then some. There’s something quite satisfying about watching a genuinely talented pop-up chef finally land a permanent space worthy of the food, and this specific brisket, eaten properly, unhurriedly, at an actual table rather than perched on a market stool, felt like the reward for years of slightly chaotic devotion finally paying off.